Tel:+44(0)1822 612720
info@shepherd-hut.co.uk

The standard Shepherd’s Hut.


Having used Shepherd’s Huts at lambing time I always felt they were too high off the ground and felt slightly unstable. The slim, narrow steps felt awkward and somewhat hazardous, especially when you had your hands full carrying lambs and medicine.

This, coupled with the thin external tin sheets, gave an overall fragile feel, especially in windy, inclement weather.

To overcome these problems we:

• For ease of access we lowered the hut and constructed wider, sturdier steps.

Shepherd Hut assembly

• Improved stability by increasing the wheel base by keeping the wheels away from the under carriage. Rather than stub axles, used solid axles running the width of the hut, fixed for the back axles, and pivoted with wear plates for the front.





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The front axles still allow for a limited amount of steering. However because the build quality is so strong, the front can be lifted using the A frame tow bar, which allows the hut to be manoeuvred on its back wheels.

Again we found this preferable to the small front wheels and steering axles (4th wheel) as reversing a trailer that has two pivots is not easy to say the least. The small front wheels, to us, looked out of character for a strong rugged hut.

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Although always happy to fit client’s own sourced wheels!

To strengthen the main carcass we fixed marine grade plywood panels on the external walls, this produced an extremely rigid body.

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We believe these changes, while keeping to the ethos of the huts, have produced a more stable, stronger and rugged looking hut.

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Walls (Internal)

We have veered away from cladding the whole of the internal space with pine tongue and groove, as we found this overpowering and the problem of knots weeping, leaving a horrible brown stain, an issue.

While the weeping knots can be overcome by an application (or two as we do) of knotting solution, it is, when done properly, very labour intensive and therefore expensive.

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Also we found that breaking up the wall by using half wall panelling made for a more classic look.

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However, once again we are always happy to fit any specifications the client wishes.

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Ceiling

The ceiling and upper half of the walls are finished off in mdf sheets, which, when coupled with the ridge and rafters, gives a clean crisp finish.

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Flooring

We recommend the engineered 3 ply and Oak finish as this gives the look of Oak, but does not have the stability issues that solid oak planks do. We have and are always happy to fit, solid Oak planks, however warping and movement will always be apparent, as it is a natural product and when it is exposed to differing weather conditions, cannot be helped.

Doors

Once we’d constructed this more solid, stable hut, we saw no point in then putting in flimsy ledge and brace doors that would allow the wind to whistle through. We fit Ibigbo hardwood, half panelled, mortise & tenon joint doors,

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complete with a weather sealed frame and hardwood threshold.

Our attention to detail can be seen from the number of different steps we employ to finish our doors:

  1. 1st coat microporous primer / tannin block.
  2. End grain sealant.
  3. denib (removing rough “hair” that appear after first treatment)
  4. 2nd coat microporous primer / tannin block
  5. 1st coat microporous topcoat.
  6. 2nd coat microporous topcoat.

Windows

Hand built redwood pine with mortise & tenon joints, housing trickle air vents, seal strips,

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with 6.4mm laminate safety glass, so if they were to break, no shards of glass would be lost in the grass below.

Again our attention to detail can be seen from the number of different steps we employ to finish our windows:

  1. 1 coat waterbased preserve.
  2. 1st application knotting solution.
  3. 2nd application knotting solution.
  4. 1st coat microporous primer.
  5. End grain sealant.
  6. denib
  7. 9. 1st coat microporous topcoat.
  8. 2nd coat microporous topcoat

External Coverstrips.

To finish the look we fit horizontal and vertical coverstrips, using Western Red Cedar as it boasts a 60-year maintenance free lifespan.

 

Specs for build

The Shepherd's Huts internal measurement are approximately 5ft 11in by 11ft 6in.

Floor

Carcass

Axles

Cast Iron Wheels

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External Walls

75mm Sheep's wool insulationInternal Walls & Ceiling

Roof sheets .

Wood burner

Always fitted by a trained and qualified tradesmen. Initially we fitted a small “pot belly” stove, but this became illegal when legislation concerning “sealed units” came in, we were also concerned with the small size of logs that it would accept.

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As a result, we decided to go for a dual purpose woodburner. One which enabled you to cook / boil a kettle on the top and also had a good sized glass frontage to watch the flames flicker.

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We finally decided on the Charnwood “Country 4” as it met our high standards in build quality and performance. Although not the cheapest, it met our specifications and fitted perfectly into the huts. It also still allowed the legally required 300mm (12inch) from grate to end of hearth, without

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encroaching into the floor space.

Fixed to the floor and seated on a slate hearth, which itself is sat on a 10mm glasroc GRG heat resistant board and in front of 12mm Glasroc GRG heat resistant board.

To finish, we use an insulated flue, lead flashing and an anti-downdraft hood to stop any “back draft” blowing the smoke back into the hut.
The Shepherd Hut Company plaque